8/24 - Wisconsin Dells

Today's trip was to Wisconsin Dells, about 50 miles north of Madison. It's a small town that began with the name of Kilbourn City after the president of the railroad company which started the town. It was eventually renamed for the natural attraction that brought tourists to the area. The town grew to accommodate the tourists and now it's the Myrtle Beach of central Wisconsin with amusement parks, putt-putts, t-shirt shops, fudge shops, eateries and all manner of touristy things.

Entering the town of Wisconsin Dells

Early tourism completely spoiled the dells, but they've been returned to as close to their original condition as possible thanks to a man who saw them for the natural wonder they were. In the early 1900's up through the Depression, George Crandall bought up nearly all the land on both sides of the river, tore down the tourist hotels and businesses which had ruined the natural beauty, started a reforestation program and repaired the human-caused damage. His heirs donated it all to a Wisconsin organization which then gave it to the state. It is now managed as a Wisconsin State Natural Area with no development to ever be allowed.

 

Romance Rock (left) and High Rock (right), subjects of Indian legends

The dells were well known by loggers in the 19th century when lumber was moved all the way to New Orleans by river. The Narrows was a particularly dangerous section with rapids going through a nearly 90-degree turn through the rocks called Devil's Elbow which claimed the lives of many log drivers. Eventually a small number of local river pilots became real experts at negotiating the section and lumber companies then hired these pilots to get their log rafts through the Narrows.

When the railroads took over the transportation of lumber, the dells became a tourist attraction after an enterprising unemployed river pilot developed a tour boat business. That was in the 1850's and the tour boat business has been operating ever since.

Witches Gulch walkway

Witches Gulch with walkway over the streambed

Witches Gulch was one of two places on the tour where everyone got off the boat. It reminded us of Arizona's slot canyons....a much wetter and cooler version.

Stand Rock

The second stop was to see Stand Rock which is famous for having started the tourist interest in the dells. A professional photographer, well known at the time for his photos of the dells, invented the "snapper" to capture moving subjects. The pictures he took to prove the snapper worked weren't believed. People thought he'd faked the pictures. When he came across Stand Rock he realized he could prove his snapper worked by capturing a picture of his son jumping across the gap. It took 17 tries before he got the shot and people finally believed his device worked. His photo spurred tremendous interest in the dells. The rush was on to see them in person.

Now the tour company has a German shepherd jump over the gap to entertain their boatloads of tourists. It's only 5'3" across so not a problem for a big dog to jump. We saw the trainer working with a new dog by putting boards across the gap and having it go over gradually wider openings.

Sandstone rock formations on the Stand Rock trail

Sandstone cliffs across the widest part of the river

Wisconsin River several miles downstream from the dells

The boat tour was beautiful and the weather couldn't have been better. It was a very nice excursion. We'll figure out what we're doing tomorrow when the time comes.