Tuesday, September 22, 2015

9/22 - Winterthur Museum, Wilmington, Delaware

Today we went to the Winterthur Museum in Delaware.  It’s a few miles across the Delaware/Pennsylvania line so we were able to check off our final eastern state.  Winterthur, pronounced “winter-tour,” was named after the ancestral Swiss home of Jacques Antoine Bidermann who, along with his wife Evelina DuPont, built the first house there in 1816 on 450 acres of land they bought from her father.  Evelina was the daughter of E. I. DuPont who emigrated from France in 1800 with his parents.  He founded E. I. DuPont de Nemours & Co., manufacturer of gunpowder, which started the family fortune.  Jacques and Evelina’s son sold the estate to Evelina’s brother General Henry DuPont.  The general’s son Henry Algernon inherited the estate which then went to Henry Francis in 1926.  



Early spring picture from Winterthur’s website.  There’s no way to capture the entire house in one picture…..it’s just too big.  This is just one end of it.




The only picture I could get of the house as we passed by on the garden tram tour.


Winterthur is an incredible place.  It was the lifelong home of Henry Francis DuPont (called Harry) (1880-1969), horticulturist/collector/philanthropist, and one of the incredibly wealthy heirs of the DuPont fortune. When he was a young man he started planning for the day when he would give his estate and collections to the public in the form of a non-profit organization with endowment to keep it going.  With this in mind he added over 100 rooms to an already huge house for the sole purpose of turning it into a museum.  The rooms were filled with his collections of antiques, everything pertaining to American art and life from about 1640 to 1860……furniture, china, silverware, metal works, paintings, carpets, etc. 


The house now contains 175 rooms.  Not every one of them is a regular room……as long as it has a single piece of furniture it’s considered a room so it might actually be no bigger than a hallway or alcove.  Some of the ones we saw were very large though.  He collected pieces from all the original 13 states, not just the furnishings but paneling and other fixtures as well.  One of the staircases is from an early 19th century house in North Carolina. 


Harry and his family lived in the museum until he was ready to turn it over to the public.  They had certain rooms they actually lived in and the rest were devoted to his collections.  In other words, no one sat in the chairs in the display rooms.  The three rooms we saw that they lived in looked just like the display rooms.  When they were ready to open the house to the public in 1951 they moved to a smaller house they built near the big house which now contains the Museum Shop and Café.  “The Cottage,” which was their way of downsizing, had only 30 rooms (with 13 bathrooms). 


The DuPonts had been farmers and botanists for several generations and Harry inherited this love for the land.  He was an accomplished horticulturist and farmer who did all sorts of experimental farming and gardening.  His goal was to improve production and quality in whatever he was working on whether it was plants or animals.  On his honeymoon he and his wife traveled around the country looking at and buying the very best Holstein-Friesian cows he could find.  His dairy operation with his “collected cows” was extremely successful, producing far more milk and cream per cow than any other dairy.  Most of the milk and cream produced in the U.S. today comes from Holstein-Friesians who are descendants of the DuPont herd. 



Magnificent old Japanese cutleaf maple.  Nothing is planted on the estate that wasn’t there when Harry was alive.  They rejuvenate things by planting cuttings and seeds taken from the existing plants.



Entrance to the museum galleries on the right and house tour on the left.


I didn’t get any pictures while we were touring the house.  There are several different house tours but we had time to take only the introductory tour.  This would be a wonderful place to visit regularly if we lived close enough.  There’s a big difference between the non-profit Winterthur and the very-much-for-profit Biltmore. Winterthur’s yearly membership is only $65 while Biltmore’s is about $160.  Biltmore is much bigger and has a very different atmosphere.  It’s also way more crowded, although Winterthur apparently can get that way as they had thousands of visitors when they had the Downton Abbey costume collection on display.


Like most museums they have traveling exhibits.  We were very lucky to be here now to see the Tiffany glass exhibit organized by the Neustadt Collection of Tiffany Glass in New York.  We’ve seen the Tiffany collection in Winter Park, Florida, but these were different pieces.  Besides, there’s no such thing as seeing too much Tiffany glass.  



Wisteria library lamp - the only piece in a glass case.




Lotus Pagoda library lamp, a design I’ve never seen before.




Begonia reading lamp.




Tropical Landscape window.


They also had several forgeries on display with explanations of how to tell them apart from the real thing.  I don’t expect to ever stumble over a genuine Tiffany out in the real world but it was very interesting to see the differences pointed out…..just in case…..


There was no way to squeeze in another place either yesterday or today so we’re going to stay here one more day and go to Longwood Gardens tomorrow.  We got lucky once again in being able to stay in our site for another night. This place will start filling up Thursday with “Pope Peepers” (the KOA host’s name for the hordes of people who are here to try to catch a glimpse of Pope Francis).  Philly is going nuts over his visit, closing 25 miles of roads in the city.  Good thing we hadn’t planned to see anything downtown.


If all goes well we should get home on Friday. 



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